Beamie Moses Seiwoh
Growing up in Sierra Leone, Libya was a distant name that echoed through the news. I heard tales of the Gaddafi regime, the vast deserts, and the Mediterranean coast as a young boy. Little did I know that one day my work with the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) would take me to this fascinating country.
Over the years, my career with UNDP has taken me to some of the most challenging countries on earth, where the scars of conflict are etched into both the land and the hearts of its citizens. In Afghanistan, I witnessed communities’ resilience amidst ongoing conflict. In DR Congo, I saw the power of grassroots development in rebuilding societies. Iraq showed me the complexities of political dynamics in post-conflict recovery, while Nigeria taught me about the strength of cultural diversity in fostering unity.
These experiences contributed to my readiness for Libya, building a foundation of adaptability and cultural sensitivity, broadening my professional expertise and worldview, and reinforcing my identity as a global citizen. Recently, I took up a three-month Detail Assignment with the UNDP Country Office in Libya, and as I sat at the terminal waiting for my boarding time, my mind went overdrive.
The Journey Begins
The day of departure itself was a whirlwind, a blur of activity and emotion. I started my journey in Baghdad, with the weight of uncertainty pressing on my shoulders. The first leg of my trip took me to Amman, where the familiar sights and sounds of the airport provided a moment of solace amidst the chaos. I boarded another flight to Tunis. As I navigated through the bustling airports, the brief layovers offered fleeting moments of rest and reflection.
My three-day layover in Tunis was a welcome break, a chance to catch my breath and enjoy the city’s vibrant nightlife. I drank my drinks with a sense of finality, knowing that this might be my last opportunity for such pleasures for months, if not permanently. The nights were filled with laughter and new acquaintances, a temporary escape from the reality that awaited me. As the layover ended, I felt a mixture of reluctance and readiness. The final leg of my journey took me to Tripoli, the destination that had been on my mind for so long. The flight felt like the culmination of all my experiences and preparations, each mile bringing me closer to the unknown.
Wheels Down in Tripoli and Starting New Life
I was met with a wave of emotions. The unfamiliar landscape stretched out before me, a stark contrast to the places I had known. My first impression was shaped by the Mediterranean’s serene beauty juxtaposed with the remnants of conflict. The city’s duality mirrored my mix of excitement and apprehension, making the moment even more poignant. Perhaps, this was the beginning of a new chapter, a chance to make a difference in Libya and myself.
The first few days in the office were packed with meetings, briefings, and orientation sessions. The pace was relentless yet exhilarating as I navigated through the initial stages of my new assignment. As the weeks passed, I found myself deeply immersed in the rhythm of life in my new home, the UN Common Compound (UNCC)—a small, modern enclave by the beach. Though secure and somewhat isolated, it provided a serene backdrop to the intense work environment, with the soothing sound of the Mediterranean waves offering a sense of calm amidst the daily challenges.
I quickly became attuned to the city’s unique charm, which effortlessly blends old-world heritage with modern aspirations. The remnants of historical architecture stand as silent witnesses to the city’s rich past, while new developments signify a hopeful future. This juxtaposition is a constant reminder of the city’s resilience and the enduring spirit of its people.
My interactions with the locals, though limited due to strict security protocols, were always warm and welcoming. Despite the constraints, the genuine hospitality and friendliness of the Libyan people shone through. Their stories of resilience and hope were profoundly inspiring, painting a vivid picture of a society determined to rebuild and move forward.
As a Sierra Leonean, I am reminded of the power of resilience and the unifying force of our shared humanity. The parallels between the two countries are striking, both having faced significant challenges and yet displaying an unyielding spirit of perseverance. I developed a profound appreciation for Libya’s rich cultural heritage. The intricate art and music, which reflect the diverse influences that have shaped the country, captivated my senses. The culinary traditions, shared with me by colleagues and local friends, offered a delightful exploration of flavours and techniques unique to this region. One memorable experience was a traditional Libyan meal from a colleague’s family. The table was laden with an array of dishes, from the spicy harissa to the savoury couscous and the sweet baklava, every bite was a revelation. As we ate, my colleagues shared stories of their families, traditions, and hopes for the future.
Adapting to Not Drinking Drinks
One of the most notable adjustments I faced moving to Libya was the prohibition of alcohol. In a country where Islamic principles guide daily life, abstaining from alcohol was not just a legal requirement but a deeply ingrained cultural norm. Coming from environments where alcohol consumption was socially accepted and often integrated into various aspects of daily life, this shift, initially daunting, turned out to be easier than anticipated. Living without alcohol brought an unexpected sense of clarity and well-being. I noticed a significant improvement in my overall health and a surprising lack of headaches, both metaphorically and literally.
Social interactions within the UNCC were no less engaging without alcohol. I found them to be more genuine and meaningful. Without the haze of alcohol, conversations were more lucid, and connections felt more authentic. I learned to appreciate the simplicity and depth of sober interactions.
I discovered new ways to relax and connect with colleagues and locals alike. During weekends, my afternoons and evenings are often spent exploring cafes, where the rich aroma of freshly brewed tea and coffee fills the air. These venues provided a relaxed atmosphere conducive to meaningful conversations and cultural exchange. One aspect of Libyan culture that I cherished was the emphasis on hospitality and communal gatherings. Without alcohol, these gatherings often centred around food, music, and storytelling.
The prohibition of alcohol also encouraged me to explore other forms of relaxation and recreation. I started jogging along the Mediterranean coast, which provided a serene and picturesque setting for physical exercise. The natural beauty of the coastline, coupled with the rhythmic sound of the waves, made these jogs a perfect way to disconnect.
In sum, living without alcohol has been a transformative experience. It has taught me the value of sobriety, the joy of genuine connections, and the richness of cultural experiences unmediated by alcohol. This adjustment, once seen as a challenge, has become a source of personal growth and enrichment. It has allowed me to fully embrace and appreciate the culture and lifestyle of my new home, deepening my understanding and respect for the principles that guide it.
Connecting with Fellow Sierra Leoneans
In all my duty stations, I have been fortunate to meet fellow Sierra Leoneans working across different UN agencies and missions. In Libya, this was no different. These interactions brought back memories of home, acting as an anchor that kept me steady in unfamiliar environments. In Tripoli, I was delighted to meet three Sierra Leoneans—Donald, Lansana, and Michael. Our initial encounter felt like a reunion of old friends, and they extended an invitation for dinner. That evening, Michael prepared a traditional Sierra Leonean dish, cassava leaves to perfection.
As we gathered around the table, the aroma of the cassava leaves evoked memories of Sierra Leone. The taste was rich and familiar, serving as a culinary link to our roots. Michael is an excellent cook, his dishes made me feel as though I was back home, sharing a meal with family. The dinner was more than just a meal, it was a celebration of our shared heritage and a moment of comfort in a foreign land. We spent the evening reminiscing about Sierra Leone, exchanging stories of our journeys. No matter where we are in the world, the bonds we share with our fellow countrymen can provide strength and comfort.
Reflection and Aspirations
Looking back on my time in Libya so far, I have been impacted by significant lessons, both professionally and personally. One such lesson is the power of genuine human connections. Despite the absence of alcohol, social interactions in Libya have been rich and meaningful, highlighting the depth of relationships built on shared experiences and mutual respect. This has affirmed my belief in the importance of community and the strength that comes from solidarity.
Professionally, my work in Libya has deepened my understanding of post-conflict recovery and the intricate balance between providing immediate humanitarian assistance and fostering long-term development. The experience has sharpened my skills and enhanced my ability to navigate complex political landscapes. These insights will be invaluable as I continue my career.
Looking forward, I am dedicated to applying the lessons learned in Iraq, Libya, Nigeria, DR Congo, Afghanistan, and Sierra Leone to positively impact other countries. I aspire to take on roles that enable me to bridge the gap within the triple nexus of humanitarian response and sustainable development, ensuring that countries recover and thrive in the long term.
On a personal level, living in Tripoli has enriched my life in countless ways. It has taught me the importance of embracing new cultures, the joy of forming deep connections without the crutch of alcohol, and the value of resilience in the face of adversity. These experiences have made me a more empathetic and culturally aware individual, qualities that I believe are essential for anyone working in international development.
I am filled with optimism and purpose. I am grateful for the opportunities I have had in Libya and for the incredible people I have met. Their stories and strengths will continue to inspire me as I pursue my professional and personal goals. I am excited to see where this path will lead me next and to continue making a difference in the world.
Editorial Note: Beamie Moses Seiwoh works at the UNDP Country Office in Libya. The views expressed in this article are his and do not reflect those of his employer.
